Trip Reports
Elias called in an update from 14,200′ Camp Three! Reaching this camp is a milestone for climbers on the route, and they’re rewarded with absolutely spectacular views, already high above many of the peaks of the Alaska Range. The team will stay here upwards of three days, acclimatizing, practicing skills for the upper mountain and…
Lead guide Yoshiko Miyazaki called in an update on the June 20 West Buttress Team, who were able to make the move up to Camp Two at 11,200′. The team battled whiteout conditions and strong winds, and picked up a few things from their cache on the way up to Camp Two. Today (6/27) the…
Guide Chris Cullaz called in an update on the June 17 Team, who pushed up camp despite the wind and the last lingering low visibility of the last storm cycle. They made the move from 11,200′ Camp Two to 14,200′ Camp Three in good time, despite the poor conditions. It sounds like the team is…
Guide Gavin Hess called in an update on the June 13 Fumich West Buttress expedition, from Camp Three at 14,200′. The team has taken four weather days now at 14-Camp, due to a large low pressure system and stormy weather hanging over the mountain. With better weather prevailing in the range, the team is planning…
Climber Lara Daniels called in an update on the June 22 “Big Knots” Team, once again from Camp One at 7,800′. The team spent today heading up the Kahiltna Glacier to cache near Ski Hill, towards the top of Kahiltna Pass at around 9,800′. Despite the stormy conditions prevailing today, the team was able to…
June 15 Team called in an update that unfortunately doesn’t come through all that well! We know that the team was able to get up the fixed lines on the steep headwall above 14-Camp, to set their cache on the 16-Ridge. This puts the team in a great position to move up to High Camp…
June 16 West Rib Team called in a quick update. Unfortunately climber Alga had a hard time with the altitude during the storm and had to be flown off the glacier. Check further down in the dispatches for an update from Alga himself, who is headed back to Seattle and thankfully doing well. The team…
Mountain Guide Jordan Cargill called in an update from the June 9 team at–you guessed it–14,200′ Camp Three. The team has enjoyed a (very) extended stay at this camp, a season record of 10 days. This is by no means the all-time record, as we have had teams have to stick it out at 14-Camp…
Climber Alga Nothern called in an update after flying off the mountain earlier this week from the West Rib expedition. Alga encountered some serious complications from altitude and was forced to make the tough but necessary call to leave the mountain. After descending quickly back to Anchorage, he is feeling much better. This affliction is…
Guide Rob Caldwell called in an update from Camp One on the West Buttress, at 7,800′. The team opted to take a weather day rather than head up Ski Hill towards Kahiltna Pass at 10,500′ to set their cache. During storms, Kahiltna Pass can be an absolute funnel for the wind, accelerating the speed, and…