Trip Reports
Jared just called to report that the NWB team is at the base of the route and looking forward to moving up it tomorrow. His call was very short and sweet (hey- he’s a nice guy!), most likely because they are nestled deep in the Peters Basin, with lots of steep rock and ice between…
Jared waited in camp today to allow Sean to catch up with the group after he took Charles Miske to basecamp to meet a plane; Sean had the help of a private group to help escort Charles to basecamp and travel with him back to Kahiltna Pass. It is never a good idea to travel…
Lead guide Mike Burmeister called after eating a hot meal yesterday evening, saying that high winds kept them tucked away in camp 1 instead of carrying a load up the Kahiltna glacier as planned. High enough winds to keep an expedition in camp are rare at the lower elevations on Denali but it is what…
Welcome to the expedition dispatch blog for our 2011 Denali West Rib expedition. Denali, or Mount McKinley, is a challenge by any standard and the vast majority of its climbers are more than happy to attempt the West Buttress route, by far the most possible and accessible of all the routes to its summit. Other…
Welcome to our May 12th West Buttress expedition! A group of climbers from around the world will gather in Anchorage Alaska tomorrow to finalize their preparations to attempt the West Buttress route of Denali. Also known as Mount McKinley, Denali is one of the famed Seven Summits and has the highest vertical relief of any…
Lots has happened in the last few days! On May 6th, Irek, Newall, Gregg and I made our way up to Camp 3 at 24,000 ft. in perfect weather. It was a very enjoyable, albeit difficult day. We then spent another rest/acclimatization day in Camp 2 before coming down to BC this morning. Last night…
Update: Mike Burmeister called from camp 1 at 7,200′ (2218m). They moved to camp 1 battling a 20mph headwind, but reported that all is well, and that the ravioli dinner really hit the spot. Tomorrow they plan to carry a load of gear ahead of camp, so hope for good weather…
This expedition flew into basecamp yesterday evening, and are most likely moving to camp 1 at 7,200′. Most expeditions do what is called single-carrying at the lower elevations on Denali; this is when a team will carry all their gear and food at once in a single massive effort to move camp and supplies. Up…
Charles Miske has left the expedition after having experienced unsettling allergy-related symptoms in camp at Kahiltna Pass. After being evaluated by the guide team everyone involved decided it was a good idea to have 2nd guide Sean, with the help of some nearby friend/climbers, take Charles down to basecamp to meet a plane. The weather…
May 10, Dingboche We’re all here relaxing and enjoying our time down in the low, oxygen rich land of Dingboche. We’re eating great, and getting good restful nights of sleep. The Snow Lion Lodge here in Dingboche is feeling like home, and we are very well taken care of by the lady who runs the…