Climb Denali! (20,310′)

Mountain Trip primarily offers expeditions with 6 climbers and 3 guides, a 2:1 climber to guide ratio. This model of smaller teams and lower climber-to-guide ratio is simply a better experience overall, and gives the team a lot of flexibility and options to deal with any issues, such as a climber not being able to continue. Our climbers consistently comment that after doing the 2:1 small trip, they would never choose a larger 3:1 ratio trip. Our 2 climber to 1 guide ratio expeditions cost a bit more, but we feel that the increased security and options available with a 2:1 climber ratio will prove to provide real and tangible benefits to our climbers.

We feel strongly that having 3 guides on a team is very important to the security and success of a West Buttress team. There have been two basic models that fit how the NPS allowed mountain guiding concessions to lead teams on the West Buttress. Historically, teams consisted of 9 climbers and 3 guides, and in recent years, some guide services offered smaller teams of 6 climbers and 2 guides.

The NPS does not allow concessionaires to leave clients unattended on the mountain, and they do not permit guide services to guide at ratios greater than 1:3 when ascending above 17,200 feet. Teams of 9:3 that lose one guide when one or two climbers or guides are unable to continue their ascent are in a difficult situation. If there are 7 or 8 clients with two guides at high camp, they cannot legally all go to the summit together, because they will be out of their contract-required ratio.

Having 3 guides with just 6 enables us to both attend to all of our climbers and better support our summit teams.

We received this question from a climber in July of 2023!

The National Park Service sets strict ratio limits for team composition, and ratios for different sections of the route. With our 6:3 model, we have more options available to us within those limits than might a team of 6:2 or 9:3. One of our goals is to keep as many guides with the team as possible for summit day, and our low ratio model really helps towards that goal.

We don’t see a lot of AMS on our trips, due to our conservative rate of ascent. But we do see it from time to time, and how we address it depends on a whole host of factors. But, if a climber cannot continue, we might leave them at a camp in the company of an assistant guide or with another Mountain Trip team to await the summit team’s descent. This usually is only practical at the 14,200 foot camp. If someone needs to descend (for non-emergent or medical reasons), our first choice would probably be to have the climber join another descending Mountain Trip team, thereby keeping the guide team intact. If there isn’t an MT team headed down, we can send them out with another guide service, if we know and trust that guide team. Descending climbers will be flown out of Base Camp straight away, weather permitting, met in Talkeetna and provided assistance by our staff to return to Anchorage.

Please keep in mind that there are many, many possible scenarios and we’ll encounter new ones in the future. We’ve hiked climbers out accompanied by two guides who turn around and catch back up within a day or two. On occasions, it might be necessary for one of your guides to descend with a climber. If it’s possible for that guide to reunite with the team, then we’ll try hard to make that happen. Often, however, it’s simply not possible to reunite, so the team would continue with two guides. It’s possible to game theory it out in any number of ways.

As you’ve probably learned on previous guided trips – joining a team means embracing the concept of teamwork, which inherently means giving up some degree of control. We offer private team options (and run 5-10 such trips each season) that give climbers more control over their composition of the team, expedition menu and itinerary, etc. Those trips cost more, but are a really good option for many climbers.

You’re right, the West Buttress isn’t too technical, but it does have a few steep and exposed sections that require fixed ropes or running belays. If you haven’t done a lot of climbing, we highly recommend taking a basic mountaineering course that will teach you crampon and ice axe technique, winter camping, glacier travel and basic rope skills. We encourage you to look through Mountain Trip Alaska’s website SummitDenali.com.

Climbers need to demonstrate being comfortable employing the skills listed above, whether you learn them through a course or through spending time in the mountains and mentorship. Fitness is also very important, not only because of the overall work load, but because being stronger helps you maintain control through the more exposed sections. The more prepared you are when you begin an expedition, the higher quality your experience will be. Fitness and training are ultimately well within your personal control and are your responsibility.

There’s no getting around it: climbing Denali is hard work. The first day on the trail, you’ll have 100+ pounds of kit in your pack and sled. After Camp 1, you will be carrying a 40-60+ pound backpack and pulling a 30-50 pound sled on the lower glacier for up to four or more hours a day. Higher up you will need to negotiate fairly steep terrain with a 50+ pound pack. Climbers who do not train for that level of work generally do not get too high on the mountain and can impact the experience of their teammates.

A good combination of aerobic and strength training is needed to prepare for an expedition. Summit day can be long, and though our packs are fairly light, people often call it the toughest day of their lives. Look over our suggestions for how to prepare for a Denali expedition. Even if you are in good shape to begin with, embark on a training regimen and follow it!

Since 2018, Mountain Trip has provided our climbers with complimentary access to Uphill Athlete’s 24-week Mountaineering Training Program. We’ve seen it really benefit our climbers to have a dedicated training program. Start. Right. Now!

Guide teams are consistently checking in on climbers. We do what we are able to prevent issues from becoming problems. Our ability to do so is very dependent on the honesty and candidness of each climber. The more information that is shared with the guides, the better we can support our climbers. Guides conduct daily morning and evening meetings, and pull climbers aside to have conversations that might be more fruitful in private. We ask pointed questions and use language that will elicit better responses than, “I’m fine.” But each climber needs to be an active participant in his or her own well-being. Guides have lots of tools available to help, but clear communication is necessary for us to best support our climbers.

We pack food to spend up to 22 days on the mountain. With a day on either end for travel between Anchorage and Talkeetna, you need to plan on 24 or 25 days in Alaska. Most trips run 16-18 days, but you MUST plan your itinerary around the longest scenario.

We pack food and supplies for 22 days on the mountain, and we contract our guides to work 22 days, so our plan is to fly out of Base Camp on that 22nd day at the latest. Guides have second Denali trips, and other work/life commitments, so we need to have a hard end date. Climbers who would like to plan for the option of staying longer should consider a private climb, which we’re happy to discuss with you

It is rare to lose more than a couple days in Talkeetna, except for the 2023 season. During that “Season of Storms” we had numerous teams wait 3+ days to fly, and some wait 3-4 days to fly off the glacier. It was a year unlike any other in our almost 50 year experience on Denali.

Mountain Trip is known for having outstanding food quality and selection on our expeditions. Our guides pride themselves on their mountain culinary skills. Menus can be tailored for those with discriminating palettes, but may contain such entrees as pad thai, chicken burgers with blue cheese and burritos for dinner, and French toast, omelets with bacon and chilaquiles for breakfast. Lunches are a combination of snacks on the run and more structured, sit-down affairs, with French dip sandwiches, pizza or quesadillas. Unlike some guide services, Mountain Trip provides all of your food on our Denali expeditions, including all of your lunches. If you have some favorite “comfort foods,” such as a particular energy bar or grandma’s secret recipe cookies, please feel free to bring them along.

Trust us on this one. Though you may get a nice, balmy summit day, there is an equal chance that you will set off from high camp wearing every stitch of clothing on that list. Please bring every required item and call or email us with any questions regarding layering systems. Your guides will check your clothing and equipment at our pre-trip meeting, and you will not be allowed to go on the mountain without the required gear and clothing on the gear list. Everything needs to be in good condition—Denali is not the place to skimp on gear and clothing!

We will provide all the group gear, such as tents, stoves, ropes, snow pickets and sleds. See our equipment list for gear you will need to provide. We have certain items available for rent and these are noted on the equipment list.

Most of our West Buttress expeditions carry snowshoes for use when there is deep, fresh snow, or for when the glacier is melting out and the trail is sloppy. Snowshoes are convenient in that they are light and easy to use. For experienced skiers we might be able to offer certain departure dates for Denali ski expeditions. We caution anyone considering the ski option to be realistic about his or her abilities. Skiing with a full pack and a sled requires a different set of skills than shredding down the black diamond mogul run at your local resort. After 16 years of negotiating with the NPS, we are now allowed to ski unroped on expeditions that are designated as ski expeditions. If you think you’d like to use skis on the mountain, those would be worth considering. Give us a ring to discuss!

It helps to know what it feels like to be at altitude, but it is not necessary to have been up high before attempting Denali. All of our expeditions follow carefully planned out acclimatization schedules. The vast majority of people climbing Denali with us do not experience high altitude illnesses due to our conservative rate of ascent and the attention our guides give to each Denali climber regarding their levels of hydration, eating and work loads. The reality is that altitude illnesses are highly subjective and can present themselves in anyone regardless of the number of times you have been at altitude. We can minimize your chances of getting sick by following a safe rate of ascent, but cannot guarantee that no one will suffer ill effects from altitude.

That being said, Denali is so challenging on so many levels that it is worth going to 5000+ meters before experiencing it in Alaska. Understanding how your body does at altitude is within your control, and we recommend getting that first experience somewhere other than Denali.

Our expedition fee includes all regular, scheduled transportation from Anchorage to the glacier and back to Anchorage, including your scheduled round-trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna and your Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier. We’re proud to be flying primarily with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

The NPS has charged a Mountaineering Special Use fee to climbers since 1996. It has gone up over the years and was most recently increased to $420 for climbers aged 25+ and $320 for climbers 24 or younger. This fee is due in full at the time of registration and is non-refundable after January 15 of the year you are registering to climb. There is also a $15 Denali National Park entrance fee that is payable in Talkeetna. Holders of an Inter Agency Pass do not have to pay the entrance fee, but need to present their pass to the Rangers in Talkeetna.