Climb Denali! (20,310′)

Mountain Trip offers primarily teams with 6 climbers and 3 guides, a 2:1 ratio. This model of smaller teams and lower climber-to-guide ratio is simply a better experience overall, and gives the team a lot of flexibility and options to deal with any issues, such as a climber not being able to continue. Our climbers consistently comment that after doing the 2:1 small trip, they would never choose a larger 3:1 ratio trip. The 2 climber to 1 guide ratio expeditions cost a bit more, but we feel that the increased security and number of options available with a 2:1 climber ratio will prove to provide real and tangible benefits to our climbers.

We feel strongly that having 3 guides on a team is very important to the security and success of a West Buttress team. There have been two basic models that fit how the NPS allowed mountain guiding concessions to lead teams on the West Buttress. Historically, teams consisted of 9 climbers and 3 guides, and in recent years, some guide services have begun offering smaller teams of 6 climbers and 2 guides. The NPS does not allow concessionaires to leave clients unattended on the mountain, and we have seen many, many teams with only 2 guides lose a guide when a climber becomes ill or is otherwise unable to continue on the trip. This results in the team having to attempt the summit with a ratio of 1 guide to 4 or 5 climbers, something we don’t feel is ideal. Having 3 guides enables us to both attend to all of our climbers and adequately staff our summit teams.

You’re right, the West Buttress isn’t too technical, but it does have a few steep and exposed sections that require fixed ropes or running belays. If you haven’t done a lot of climbing, we highly recommend taking a basic mountaineering course that will teach you crampon and ice axe technique, winter camping, glacier travel and basic rope skills. We encourage you to read our “Preparation and Training for Denali and Big Cold Mountains” article. Climbers need to be comfortable employing the skills listed above, whether you learn them through a course or through spending time in the mountains and mentorship. Fitness is also very important, not only because of the overall work load, but because being stronger helps you maintain control through the more exposed sections. The more prepared you are when you begin an expedition, the higher quality your experience will be.

There’s no getting around it: climbing Denali is hard work. The first day on the trail, you’ll have 100+ pounds of kit in your pack and sled. After Camp 1, you will be carrying a 40-60+ pound backpack and pulling a 30-50 pound sled on the lower glacier for up to four or more hours a day. Higher up you will need to negotiate fairly steep terrain with a 50+ pound pack.

A good combination of aerobic and strength training is needed to prepare for an expedition. Summit day can be long, and though our packs are fairly light, people often call it the toughest day of their lives. Look over our suggestions for how to prepare for a Denali expedition. Even if you are in good shape to begin with, embark on a training regimen and follow it!

In 2018, Mountain Trip began providing our climbers with complimentary access to Uphill Athlete’s 24-week Mountaineering Training Program. We’ve seen it really benefit our climbers to have a dedicated training program.

We pack food to spend up to 22 days on the mountain. With a day on either end for travel between Anchorage and Talkeetna, you need to plan on 24 days in Alaska. Most trips run 16-18 days, but you MUST plan your itinerary around the longest scenario.

Mountain Trip is known for having outstanding food quality and selection on our expeditions. Our guides pride themselves on their mountain culinary skills. Menus can be tailored for those with discriminating palettes, but may contain such entrees as pad thai, chicken burgers with blue cheese and burritos for dinner, and French toast, omelets with bacon and chilaquiles for breakfast. Lunches are a combination of snacks on the run and more structured, sit-down affairs, with French dip sandwiches, pizza or quesadillas. Unlike some guide services, Mountain Trip provides all of your food on our Denali expeditions, including all of your lunches. If you have some favorite “comfort foods,” such as a particular energy bar or grandma’s secret recipe cookies, please feel free to bring them along.

Trust us on this one. Though you may get a nice, balmy summit day, there is an equal chance that you will set off from high camp wearing every stitch of clothing on that list. Please bring all that is required and call or email us with any questions regarding layering systems. Your guides will check your clothing and equipment at our pre-trip meeting, and you will not be allowed to go on the mountain without the required gear and clothing on the gear list. Everything needs to be in good condition—Denali is not the place to skimp on gear and clothing!

We will provide all the group gear, such as tents, stoves, ropes, snow pickets and sleds. See our equipment list for gear you will need to provide. We have certain items available for rent and these are noted on the equipment list.

Most of our West Buttress expeditions carry snowshoes for use when there is deep, fresh snow, or for when the glacier is melting out and the trail is sloppy. Snowshoes are convenient in that they are light and easy to use. For experienced skiers we might be able to offer certain departure dates for Denali ski expeditions. We caution anyone considering the ski option to be realistic about his or her abilities. Skiing with a full pack and a sled requires a different set of skills than shredding down the black diamond mogul run at your local resort. We are no longer able to offer the opportunity to ski unroped on Denali, as in 2013, the NPS decided that such an activity is not appropriate on Denali.

It helps to know what it feels like to be at altitude, but it is not necessary to have been up high before attempting Denali. All of our expeditions follow carefully planned out acclimatization schedules. The vast majority of people climbing Denali with us do not experience high altitude illnesses due to our conservative rate of ascent and the attention our guides give to each Denali climber regarding their levels of hydration, eating and work loads. The reality is that altitude illnesses are highly subjective and can present themselves in anyone regardless of the number of times you have been at altitude. We can minimize your chances of getting sick by following a safe rate of ascent, but cannot guarantee that no one will suffer ill effects from altitude.

Our expedition fee includes all regular, scheduled transportation from Anchorage to the glacier and back to Anchorage, including your scheduled round-trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna and your Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier. We’re proud to be flying primarily with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

The NPS has charged a Mountaineering Special Use fee to climbers since 1996. It has gone up over the years and was most recently increased to $375 for climbers over age 24 and $275 for climbers 24 or younger. This fee is due in full at the time of registration and is non-refundable after January 15 of the year you are registering to climb. There is also a $15 Denali National Park entrance fee that is payable in Talkeetna. Holders of an Inter Agency Pass do not have to pay the entrance fee.