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May 8 Team – Tough Decisions at 14,200′

The past 15 hours have been very tough for the May 8th team.  They have been on the mountain for 17 days, and last night they received a pretty unfavorable sounding weather report at the evening weather broadcast.  As we do with most Denali expeditions, we packed 22 days of food for this team.  It…

Details
May 26, 20142 CommentsBy Mountain Trip

UAE Team 2 – Camped at Base Camp

The second group of climbers from the United Arab Emirates awoke to a whiteout this morning.  Weather did not improve during the day, and snow fell which obscured the old track up the glacier to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet.  The team had no choice but to remain in camp and wait for even a…

Details
May 26, 2014Leave a commentBy Mountain Trip

UAE Team 1 – Back Carry Day at 11,200′

The United Arab Emirates team camped at 11,200′ had a short work day today.  They dropped out of camp to retrieve the cache of supplies they had deposited at about 10,200′ a couple days earlier.  The weather was not too good, but as they knew they had just a short bit to travel, they punched…

Details
May 26, 2014Leave a commentBy Mountain Trip

May 12 Team – Heather Calls from 14,200′

Our guide Heather Thamm called in to let us all know that the team spent the day at camp today, awaiting for a break in the weather that has been settling in on virtually the entire mountain in the past 24 hours.  They are in a good position to move high and attempt the summit,…

Details
May 25, 2014Leave a commentBy Mountain Trip

May 22 Team – Weather Day at Base Camp

Matt Bohne called in from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to report that the team was unable to move today, due to very, very poor visibility.  They received some snowfall, which effectively obliterated the old trail to Camp 1.  The trail was not well marked, and so the team took the prudent course…

Details
May 25, 20142 CommentsBy Mountain Trip

May 16 Team – Report from 11,200′

Brian called in a report from their team, which is still camped at 11,200′.  They had hoped to move up to 14,200′ today, but inclement weather did not permit them to travel.  They are camped in a beautiful basin, which they could not fully enjoy today, due to thick clouds that kept moving in and…

Details
May 25, 20141 CommentBy Mountain Trip

Recap of UAE Presidential Guard Kahiltna Glacier Visit

It was a real pleasure to participate in the launch of the first of two teams from the United Arab Emirates Presidential Guard, as they headed up the Kahiltna Glacier onto the flanks of Denali.  We are assisting 20 climbers from the Emirates, as they continue their quest to climb Mount Everest in an ongoing…

Details
May 25, 20143 CommentsBy Mountain Trip

May 12 Team Calls From 14,200′

The May 12th Team called in a post in French this evening, after making a carry up the fixed lines and onto the ridge that leads to high camp.  As is all too often the case, the satellite transmission was cut off before they could complete their call.  I will do my best to translate…

Details
May 25, 20141 CommentBy Mountain Trip

May 16 Team – Cached at 13,500′

Lead guide Yoshiko Miyazaki-Back called in an update from their camp at 11,200′ just now, but her call was unfortunately cut off.  Satellites pass quite far to the south of the Alaska Range and it is more common than not to lose their signals, especially when you are in a camp such as the May…

Details
May 24, 2014Leave a commentBy Mountain Trip

UAE Team 1 – Camped at 11,200′

The UAE Team 1 moved up to the beautiful basin camp at 11,200′ today.  They are doing well and have fortified their camp in preparation of a storm that is predicted to hit the mountain tomorrow.  This camp is quite well protected from most storms, although it is prone to receiving high quantities of snow…

Details
May 24, 2014Leave a commentBy Mountain Trip
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