Trip Reports

The May 12th West Buttress Expedition

Welcome to our May 12th West Buttress expedition! A group of climbers from around the world will gather in Anchorage Alaska tomorrow to finalize their preparations to attempt the West Buttress route of Denali.  Also known as Mount McKinley, Denali is one of the famed Seven Summits and has the highest vertical relief of any…

At 7,200′, Camp 1

Update: Mike Burmeister called from camp 1 at 7,200′ (2218m).  They moved to camp 1 battling a 20mph headwind, but reported that all is well, and that the ravioli dinner really hit the spot.  Tomorrow they plan to carry a load of gear ahead of camp, so hope for good weather…

In basecamp

This expedition flew into basecamp yesterday evening, and are most likely moving to camp 1 at 7,200′.  Most expeditions do what is called single-carrying at the lower elevations on Denali; this is when a team will carry all their gear and food at once in a single massive effort to move camp and supplies.  Up…

Holding at Kahiltna Pass

Charles Miske has left the expedition after having experienced unsettling allergy-related symptoms in camp at Kahiltna Pass.  After being evaluated by the guide team everyone involved decided it was a good idea to have 2nd guide Sean, with the help of some nearby friend/climbers, take Charles down to basecamp to meet a plane.  The weather…

Dingboche

May 10, Dingboche We’re all here relaxing and enjoying our time down in the low, oxygen rich land of Dingboche. We’re eating great, and getting good restful nights of sleep. The Snow Lion Lodge here in Dingboche is feeling like home, and we are very well taken care of by the lady who runs the…

Carrying over Kahiltna Pass

Guide Sean McManamy reports that Jared and three climbers are currently carrying loads to the base of the Northwest Buttress, while Sean is hanging out in camp with one guest preparing to move on down to basecamp to meet a plane.  The phone cut out before I could learn who it was, but everything is…

Move to high camp!

Henry reports that the expedition put in a long and tiring day moving camp one last time up to 17,200′ (5,298m).  They got in late as temperatures are too cold to start moving early in the morning and had just enough energy to set up camp and eat a hot meal before everyone tucked into…

Weathered in at Kahiltna Pass

The Northwest Buttress team was bogged down in bad weather yesterday, tucked away in their camp at 10,000′ (3080m).  The next leg of their journey will have carrying loads ahead of camp up to Kahiltna Pass, up to the summit of Mt. Capps at 10,790′ (3,323m), down the north ridge of Capps, across the lower…