To All Mountain Trip Teams

We just heard about another accident on Denali that occurred last night.  This was not a Mountain Trip team.  All our climbers are doing fine at this time. Details are not clear at this time, but apparently four climbers roped together fell while descending from Denali Pass.  Two of the climbers did not survive.  We…

A quick descent

After a quick push down from 11k the expedition called me this morning from the base of ski hill at 7,800′.  They moved down the Kahiltna quickly and marched right up heartbreak hill to basecamp and were on a flight out to Talkeetna around 2pm.  We sent a fellow guide to pick everyone up and…

It’s cold up there

No doubts- high camp is a cold place to be, and the team members are undoubtedly wearing all of their down clothing and zippering their sleeping bags shut tight, and drinking lots of hot drinks to combat the chill.  Jacob led a rope team up to Denali pass to prepare the slope for a summit…

Successful move to high camp

Jacob called last night on the satellite phone from high camp.  Although it was a lot colder up there and people were tired from a long day, Jacob said everyone was warm and dry, eating a hot meal in their sleeping bags.  It took the team 8 hours to move from 14,200′ to 17,200′ (4,328m-5,243m)…

Waiting on the Wind

…to stop.  Zach called in to let us know they are all doing well, waiting for winds up high to abate before going to high camp.  They took a little 10 minute walk, roped up, to peer over “the edge of the world”, which is a view straight down the North East Fork of the…

Spotty weather

Jacob called in yesterday evening from camp 4, looking for the weather forecast.  Usually 14,200′ (4,328m) is camp 3 and camp 4 is high camp, but the team was forced to make an extra camp due to a storm that blew in while moving from camp 1 to 2; there are no prescribed camp areas…

Heading Up To The Ridge

I just spoke with Ben a bit ago and it sounds like things are going really well for the team and they are going to make a carry up onto the ridge that leads to high camp in just a few minutes. Yesterday, they did a “back-carry” to bring the supplies that they had cached…