Mountain Trip climber John Reed called in an update on the June 15 West Buttress expedition at Camp Two (John mistakenly mentions Camp One, but the team has made their way to Camp Two at 11,200′).

The team has been traveling on a night schedule up to this point, and as John mentions, experiencing a range of temperatures from seemingly scorching with the direct sun at altitude, and cold when the awake late at night to continue climbing when the glacier is frozen solid, as to mitigate the risk of crevasse fall. When they travel on the night schedule, it is still so light out in the range that they do not need to use headlamps and can simply use the prevailing light of the midnight sun.

Here’s John!