Guide Brian Muller called in an update for the June 19 West Buttress expedition, who woke up in the middle of the night to start their trek from Camp One at 7,800′ to Camp Two at 11,200′.
While the high pressure system has helped climbers make faster progress up the mountain than when the range was bombarded by consistent storms, the strong sun of the afternoon and the accelerated melting of the glacier and its snow bridges necessitates a night schedule for teams. There has been a lack of freeze overnight lower down on the glacier.
Today (6/25) the team will likely retrieve their cache up at around 10,500′ on the route, and then cache at 13,500′ above camp to prepare for their move to Camp Three at 14,200′. To move up to 14-Camp, the team will no longer have to travel on a night schedule, as the upper mountain is generally always cold enough for a full freeze during the night and relatively low temperatures during the day.
The high pressure system looks like it will continue for the next few days, meaning great climbing weather for the team.