May 21 Team Caches at 16400′

Lead Guide Ben Adkison called in the trip report tonight. He reports that the team had great weather for moving a load of equipment and supplies up the fixed lines, to a cache site at 16,400′.

14 Camp with the fixed lines up the Headwall in the background.


The terrain immediately above the 14 Camp starts out pretty mellow, but the slope increases as the climbers ascend. After about an hour of hiking, the snow starts to get quite steep, culminating with a headwall that can reach 45 degrees.

This steepest section is about 600′ high, and it protected by two lengths of rope, each affixed to the surface of the slope with deeply buried anchors at semi-regular intervals. These are referred to as the fixed lines, and one is for ascending climbers and the other used by those on their descent. Climbers clip into one of the lines with a mechanical rope clamp known as an ascender, which will slide in one direction, clamping down and holding the climber to the fixed line when weighted in the other direction (down!).

This is an arduous stretch of the route, but leads to some of the most spectacular climbing of the entire West Buttress, the ridge that leads to High Camp! This rock and snow ridge has some big exposure with steep drop offs and makes for really fun climbing. The team climbed about 200′ of the ridge before burying a cache at about 16,400′.


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1 Comment

  1. Beautiful greetings from Austria. I want to wish the whole Team 21.May West Buttress Expidition for climbing on the top ALL THE BEST and good weather conditions.Enjoy this wonderful Moment. Your great.For my husband Thomas a big hug and kisses. I think of you.

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