May 11 Team Moves to High Camp

The May 11 team packed up from Camp 3 yesterday. They ascended 1,000′ to the bergschrund below the fixed lines. A berschrund is where the glacier meets steep ice and sloughs dramatically away from it creating a gaping crevasse. Here, the team attached their ascender to their harness and to the rope (fixed line). They moved the ascender up the rope, and as they do it captures they progress, biting into the rope and not allowing downward movement. This is obviously a fantastic protection feature. They climb up steep snow and possibly some blue ice of a 50* slope for about 600′ to the ridge at 16,200′ (4937m). From here they climb the ridge another 1,000′ to High Camp. Upon arrival, they dig into the hard snow to make their new home and probably mostly huddle in the tents as it is pretty cool and breezy up this high. The views from here are amazing. The team will spend today resting, hydrating, and fueling in hopes of having a good window for a summit attempt tomorrow.

High Camp

Here’s Jordan:


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