May 21 West Buttress Expedition cached above the Fixed Lines

Climber Alexander called in an update on the May 21 West Buttress team, from Camp Three at 14,200′ on the route. Yesterday, the team broke out their crampons and ascended the steep fixed lines to cache on the ridge, at around 16,300′, to put them into position to move up to High Camp. From 17,200′ High Camp, they will make their push to the summit at 20,310′, once their weather window opens.

The team notes that they are happy and healthy, and miss everyone back home! They plan on taking a rest day on Sunday, June 2, before they push further up the route. The weather forecast looks very promising for them, with low winds and dry conditions in the outlook for above 17,000′ on Monday and Tuesday–but Denali doesn’t often play by forecast predictions.

Here’s Alexander!


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  1. Sounds promisings. Good luck with the move to High Camp and the subsequent ascent to the summit. Fingers crossed for favorable weather. Thinking especially of Nick Nason on this date, June 1st, his 30th birthday! Thoughts are with the entire team for a safe climb to the top.

  2. Wishing you all continued success and good weather and also wishing my son, Nick Nason, a happy 30th birthday. Celebration planned when you are back with us at sea level 🧜‍♀️

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