The May 14th Team is making the most of yet another storm day by running through skills for the fixed ropes on the upper mountain. With weather keeping the team in place, the guides have turned the day into an opportunity to dial in some of the most important techniques climbers will use higher up on Denali.

Fixed lines come into play on the steeper, more exposed sections of the route, where teams clip into pre-set ropes for added security on terrain that would otherwise be too risky to climb unprotected. Practicing how to move efficiently on these ropes is critical work. The drills typically include ascending using mechanical ascenders or prusik systems, descending in control with arm rappels or rappel devices, and most importantly transitions at anchor points where climbers have to unclip from one section and clip into the next while always staying attached to the line. It might sound simple on paper, but doing it smoothly, especially while wearing heavy gloves, a big pack takes practice.

There’s a real benefit to running through these drills in camp before they’re needed on terrain where the consequences are higher. A storm day at Camp 2 is a low-stakes environment to slow down, ask questions, and refine technique. By the time the team is moving on the actual fixed lines higher up, the motions should feel automatic, which frees up mental energy for the bigger task of climbing safely at altitude.

Looking ahead, the team’s next move is to cache around Windy Corner once the weather opens up. Windy Corner is one of the more notorious sections of the West Buttress route, sitting at around 13,500 feet and known for funneling wind off the upper mountain. Getting a cache through that section is a big step toward establishing a position higher up the mountain, and today’s skills work is part of what sets the team up for success when that window finally arrives.

Take a listen to the May 14th team checking from Camp 2!

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Interested in more information about conditions and happenings on Denali? Be sure to also check out the Denali National Park’s Denali Dispatches Blog where they post weekly Field Reports.