The May 16th team had a strong day on the mountain, getting a cache in around Windy Corner! It’s a significant step forward and an important milestone on the way to establishing themselves higher up the route.
Windy Corner is one of the more notorious sections of the West Buttress, sitting at around 13,500 feet and known for funneling wind off the upper mountain. On a good day, it’s a manageable but demanding stretch of climbing. On a bad day, it can shut down progress entirely. Getting a cache through that section takes good timing and the willingness to seize a window when it presents itself, and the team picked their moment well today.
The team also passed along a helpful read on conditions along the route. Motorcycle Hill is reportedly in great shape, described as “buckets,” which is climber shorthand for solid, secure footing where crampons and boots bite easily into firm snow steps. Squirrel Hill, on the other hand, is currently blue ice, a harder and more technical surface that demands precise crampon work and focus. The good news is that there’s a well-established track through Squirrel Hill, which makes the going considerably more straightforward even on the icier terrain. These kinds of on-the-ground condition reports are invaluable, both for the team’s own planning and for the broader picture of how the route is shaping up this season.
For now, the team is back at camp with a successful cache day behind them. With supplies now staged higher up the route and a good handle on current conditions, the May 16th team is well-positioned for their next move up the mountain.
—
Family and friends are encouraged to leave comments for their loved ones on this expedition. Please keep in mind that climbers will not be able to see posts or comments until they return to Talkeetna at the end of the expedition.
Don’t forget that you can subscribe to this expedition’s Field Reports by entering your email address in the form to the right or below if viewing via mobile. That way, you never miss an update!
Interested in more information about conditions and happenings on Denali? Be sure to also check out the Denali National Park’s Denali Dispatches Blog where they post weekly Field Reports.


