Lead Guide Jordan Cargill called in from Camp 3 at 14,200 feet today. “Team Louise” had a brilliant day climbing up the steepest section of the West Buttress route to deposit a cache of supplies on a craggy ridge at about 16,400 feet. Conditions were good, but icy, which presents a challenge on the steep Headwall, which is 40 degrees for much of it’s 600 feet of height. Everyone did great, however, and Jordan said there wasn’t a breath of wind on the ridge, making it one of the nicest days he’s seen up there! After digging their cache and depositing their supplies for the upper mountain, they descended back to Camp 3.

The Headwall is also known as the “Fixed Lines.” This is due to two length of rope that are affixed to the icy bed of the slope at fairly regular intervals. On the ascent, the climbers clipped themselves into one of the ropes using a mechanical ascender, which slides up the rope, but grips when weighted, providing security against a slip. When they descended back down the other rope (one is for the uphill and the other for folks headed down), they used a technique called an “arm wrap.” This involves taking a turn or two of the rope around your forearm, so as to create friction which helps you maintain balance and control your rate of descent. Jordan’s satellite connection got cut off, but word from the glacier is that they got back to camp in fine stayl and are excited to move the 3000 feet of elevation up to High Camp in the coming days.

Here’s Jordan!

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