Black Canyon of the Gunnison – Guided Rock Climbing
If you’ve heard of Black Canyon of the Gunnison, it’s likely been due to its reputation for long, committing routes. If you haven’t, it’s because the Black (as us climbers affectionately call it) has world-class rock climbing that has managed to remain under the radar for decades. In this lesser-traveled corner of Colorado, the Black has some of the longest, cleanest stretches of granite in the state. This is a climbing venue where the ethic is still strongly one of adventure, rooted in the purity of climbing in a place with very little development or infrastructure. A trip in the Black won’t resemble any other climbing trip you’ve been on!
Perhaps best said by geologist and explorer, Wallace Hansen: “Several western canyons exceed the Black Canyon in overall size … some are longer, some are deeper, some are narrower, and a few have walls as steep. But no other canyon in North America combines the depth, narrowness, sheerness, and somber countenance of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.”
Over the course of two million years, the gneiss and schist of Black Canyon of the Gunnison was sculpted by the Gunnison River and weathering processes from rain, wind, and sun. With a fascinating and unique geology, intrusions of igneous rock squeezed into this layer, creating the colorful walls of the canyon that we see today.
Perhaps you’ve heard the many stories of parties being benighted in the canyon? Not only are the routes commonly several hundred to well over 1,000 feet long; you often have to rappel into the canyon and then climb your way back out. The level of commitment and raw adventure required to climb here leaves many feeling apprehensive about taking on the challenge of the Black.
For those that do feel called to experience the enormity and extraordinary vertical wilderness of this canyon, hiring a guide for rock climbing in Black Canyon of the Gunnison is an excellent option! Our guides are exceptionally talented climbers and are psyched to take you up some of the longer or more difficult classics such as the Russian Arete (5.10-) or Scenic Cruise (5.10+). With few exceptions, we want to have climbed with you before attempting the longer routes, so be prepared for the office to ask you about your previous experience.
Even lesser known is the varied amount of climbing; there are routes for every level of ability and experience. Let us put a rope up on the classics or show you the top-notch, under-the-radar moderate routes. You’ll climb with a guide who knows the canyon and shares your passion for rock climbing!
Classic Black Canyon Climbing Routes
- Maiden Voyage 5.9, Grade III
- Scenic Cruise 5.10+, Grade V
- Comic Relief 5.10-, Grade III
- Russian Arete 5.10a, Grade IV
- Blackjack 5.10-, Grade III
- See the tabs below for more info!
