DENALI via the WEST BUTTRESS
Duration: 14-22 days

2006 celebrated our 30th Anniversary guiding climbers on Denali! We have learned a thing or two about taking care of our climbers over the years and this is reflected in our success rates. In 2004 we were the only company to reach the summit of Denali on every scheduled expedition. In 2005, 9 of 11 expeditions stood on the summit, and in 2006, 10 of 14 made it. In 2007,despite a horrendously stormy first six weeks of the season, 9 of our 12 expeditions reached the top. In 2008, the demand for our services was tremendous and we orchestrated 22 Denali expeditions. 21 of these stood on the summit of Mount McKinley.

For climbers wishing to do a non technical, but physically and mentally challenging climb of Denali, we offer two options: a round trip climb of the West Buttress route or a Traverse climb. The duration of these expeditions is between 16 and 26 days with the Traverse usually being the longer of the two.

The West Buttress of Denali was pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1950. Due to its relative ease of access in this modern age of Air Taxis, it has become the route of choice for most climbers. The route begins at 7,200 feet on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. It follows the Kahiltna north before ascending up onto the West Buttress proper. Though technically not very difficult, climbers will use a variety of mountaineering techniques to safely make their way around crevasses and up moderately steep terrain. The route culminates on Summit Day with an incredible knife edged ridge to the highest point in North America.

Heavy packs and the thin air of altitude at such high latitudes can make the West Buttress a very physically challenging climb. Extreme winds, heavy snowfall and arctic cold all conspire to make any undertaking on Denali very serious. Experience counts in Alaska and our guides have been on more Denali expeditions on the mountain than most. We have strict policies on how many Denali expeditions a guide must have guided before leading an expedition for Mountain Trip. If you are considering joining a guided party, ask your outfitter how many Denali trips your guide has been on. It makes a difference.

To view a sample West Buttress Itinerary, please click HERE.

For climbers wishing to polish their skills, we offer short refresher courses that can be scheduled for the days immediately preceeding your Denali expedition. Click HERE for details.

SKI DENALI OPTION FOR 2009!

For climbers, with solid ski mountaineering skills, we are offering a Denali expedition on skis. While skis will primarily be used for transportation, there will also be opportunities to lay down some turns. The skills needed to travel on skis wearing a heavy pack and pulling a large sled are different from the skills needed to make turns down the local black diamond mogul run. Please be advised that the aim of this trip is not to ski from the summit of Denali , although that option is not out of the question. Climbers interested in this trip are encouraged to contact our office for more details.

Download our Denali Application Packet HERE

"I would like to specifically comment on the caliber of the three guides, Heidi, Durney, and Fabio, who were all truly excellent, both in the way they taught the group all kinds of mountaineering skills, and in their tireless work to make things run smoothly..."
- Klaus Lindpainter, May 26, 2006 West Buttress Expedition

WEST BUTTRESS TRAVERSE
Duration: 18-26 days

A Traverse climb ascends the West Buttress route to the summit of Denali and then descends the spectacular Karsten's Ridge down to the Muldrow Glacier. This is a fantastic way to experience more of the mountain. Descending onward through the Great and Lower Icefalls, climbers gain McGonagall Pass and head out to the fabled Wonder Lake. The walk out to Wonder Lake is about 25 miles of rolling terrain and can be done in one or two days. There is something special about climbing off the snowy mountain and in to the green tundra and thick air! Your senses come alive to new sights and smells. There are several river crossings that may be difficult or at least exciting. Climbers who have done the traverse often comment that the descent was at least as memorable and challenging as reaching the summit. This is a more physically challenging endeavor than climbing up and down the West Buttress, so an extra level of fitness is definitely required.

"Thank you very much for a wonderful experience under the fantastic team of guides from Mountain Trip. Zach is absolutely invaluable and so impressively skilled and passionate about taking people up that mountain - it really made the difference."
- Ania Lichota, June 17, 2007 W. Buttress Expedition

Denali's West Buttress, West Rib and the South Face

DENALI via the WEST RIB
Duration: 16-24+ days

For the climber looking for a more technical route on Denali, we offer scheduled expeditions up the West Rib. Other routes are also available by private arrangement. Mountain Trip began guiding climbers up technical routes on Denali in 1982, when we led a group up the Northwest Buttress for its second ascent. Additionally, our guides have led expeditions on the Cassin Ridge, the South Buttress and the West Rib. We generally offer one or two technical Denali climbs per season with scheduled trips up the West Rib.

These routes are only for experienced mountaineers, as they are both physically and technically demanding. The climbing involves steep couloirs and beautiful ridges. Summit day is very demanding, potentially requiring over 20 hours of climbing. After returning to high camp from the summit, you will descend via the West Buttress. We can also offer other options for the Rib, such as doing it Alpine style or doing just the Upper Rib variation. Let us know your interests.

Technical routes other than the West Rib are available by private arrangement. Party size on these routes will vary depending on the climb, but tend to be small teams. We love to run these trips and will work with you to make them happen. Write us for a specific itinerary, climber qualifications and equipment lists.
Please click HERE for our Denali Application Packet

Denali from the North Side, via the Muldrow Glacier
Duration: 23-28+ days

Any climb of Denali is a tremendous undertaking; however in response to a growing number of requests, we offered the added challenge of attempting the mountain from the North Side last season. Both of our North Side expeditions were successful, and our early season Sourdough team was the first to reach the summit of Denali in 2008.

We will send two small teams in to climb Denali via the Muldrow Glacier Route. This is the same line of ascent taken by the Sourdough Expedition of 1910, although we will not follow their lead of dragging a 14 foot spruce pole up with us. The North Side of the mountain is a place reserved for the fit and the committed. This is a remote setting to undertake an arctic expedition and it lacks the "safety net" offered by the NPS and the number of climbers on the West Buttress. This is a longer, harder and more committing expedition than the West Buttress that is somewhat more technical as well. The rewards for your efforts will be beyond words as tremendous vistas unfold beyond your feet and you tangibly recognize that you are travelling where few have ever trodden.

We plan to send one team in by plane in early May and another team in by bus in early June. Please contact us for details and a complete itinerary. For the ultra-adventurous, we are also offering a climb of the North Side with a dog sled approach. You can read about our Sourdough Expedition HERE.

For our Denali Application Packet please click HERE

Denali via the Cassin Ridge
Duration: 17-22+ days

This slender ridge drops like a plumb line from the summit of Denali, splitting its massive South Face in two. It is the line that immediately captures the eye of climbers when they first see the mountain from the south. "The Cassin" is a legendary route, which has attracted the best alpinists of the day since it was first climbed in 1961 by Ricardo Cassin and members of an Italian climbing club known as the Lecco Spiders. Among experienced alpinists, it has a reputation as the apline climb to do in North America.

The Cassin has only been guided a couple of times. Mountain Trip attempted an early guided climb in the 1980's. We have the beginnings of a strong team assembled to attempt the route in 2008 and are offering a few spots to experienced, fit climbers. This is a serious route and demands the utmost respect. We have not taken the decision to guide it lightly. Any climber who wishes to attempt this route must join us in Southwest Colorado for a few days of training and evaluation during the winter. We have selected our strongest, most qualified guides to lead this climb and will only consider strong, committed climbers to join the team.

Please contact us if you would like to climb the most striking line on Denali.

Denali Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What level of mountaineering proficiency should I have before making the trip? The West Buttress didn't look overly technical.

A: You're right, the W. Buttress isn't too technical, but it does have a few steeper or exposed sections that require fixed ropes or running belays. If you haven't done a lot of climbing, we highly recommend taking a course that will teach you crevasse rescue, winter camping and basic rope skills. The more prepared you are when you begin an expedition, the higher the quality your experience will be. Fitness is very important, not only because of the overall work load, but because being stronger helps you maintain control through the more exposed bits.

Q: What level of fitness is needed to climb Denali?

A: There's no getting around it, climbing Denali is hard work. You will be carrying a 40-60+ lb backpack and pulling a 30-50 lb sled on the lower glacier for up to four or more hours a day. Higher up you will need to be able to negotiate fairly steep terrain with a 50+ lb pack. A good combination of aerobic and strength training is needed to prepare for an expedition. Summit day can be long and though our packs are fairly light, people often call it the toughest day of their lives. Look over our suggenstions for how to prepare for a Denali expedition.

Q: How much time do I need to plan on for a Denali expedition?

A: We pack food to spend up to 22 days on the mountain. With a day on either end for travel between Anchorage and Talkeetna, you need to plan on 24 days in Alaska. Most trips run 16-18 days, but you must plan your itinerary around the longest scenario.

Q: What is the food like on an expedition?

A: Mountain Trip is known for having outstanding food quality and selection on our expeditions. Our guides pride themselves on their mountain culinary skills. Menus can be tailored for those with discriminating palettes, but may contain such entrees as Pad Thai, Tortellini al Pesto and Burrito night for dinner and French Toast, Omelets with bacon and Chilaquiles for breakfast. Unlike some guide services, Mountain Trip provides all your food on our Denali expeditions, including all your lunches. If you have some favorite, "comfort foods", please feel free to bring them along.

Q: Do I really need all those clothes on the equipment list? I can't imagine wearing all those layers!

A: Trust us on this one. Though you may get a nice, balmy summit day; there is an equal chance that you will set off from high camp wearing every stitch of clothes on that list. Please bring all that is required and call or email us with any questions regarding layering systems.

Q: What gear would be provided by Mountain Trip?

A: We will provide all the group gear, such as tents, stoves, ropes, snow pickets and sleds. See our equipment list for gear you will need to provide. We have certain items available for rental and these are noted on the equipment list.

Q: What about skis vs. snowshoes for the lower glacier?

A: Most of our West Buttress expeditions carry snowshoes for use when there is deep fresh snow or for when the glacier is melting out and the trail is sloppy. Snowshoes are convenient in that they are light and easy to use. For experienced skiers we offer certain departure dates for Denali ski expeditions. We caution anyone considering the ski option to be realistic about their abilities. Skiing with a full pack and a sled requires a different set of skills than shredding down the black diamond mogul run at your local resort.

Q: I've never been to high altitudes before; is this reason for concern?

A: It helps to know what it feels like to be at altitude; but it is not necessary to have been up high before attempting Denali. All of our expeditions follow carefully planned out acclimatization schedules. The vast majority of people climbing with us do not experience high altitude illnesses, due to our conservative rate of ascent and the attention our guides give to each climber regarding their levels of hydration, eating and work loads. The reality is that altitude illnesses are highly subjective and can present themselves in anyone regardless of the number of times you have been at altitude. We can minimize your chances of getting sick by following a safe rate of ascent, but cannot guarantee that no one will suffer ill effects from altitude.

Q: Does the trip cost include the Air Taxi?

A: The trip cost includes all regular transportation from Anchorage to the Glacier and back to Anchorage, including your scheduled round trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna and your Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier. We're proud to be flying primarily with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

Spider Clouds above the West Buttress.

" Mountain Trip is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve"