Vinson Massif 16,067 ft.

Overview

Mount Vinson, Antarctica's highest peak, lies within the Ellsworth mountain range a mere 600 miles from the South Pole. Antarctica is a land of extremes, with night-time low temperatures often reaching negative 40F and a sun that never sets.

Our team meets at the southern tip of Chile in the bustling port town of Punta Arenas . We will spend two days checking equipment and weighing our collective gear and supplies in preparation for the 6 hour flight to The Ice. Flying to Antarctica aboard a Russian Ilyushin IL-76 cargo jet and landing on the blue ice runway at Patriot Hills is an experience you will never forget. From Patriot Hills we board a Twin Otter on skis for the flight to Vinson base camp. It takes an impressive amount of logistical support to get people and gear to the bottom of the world.

The route up Mt Vinson involves glacier travel and moderately steep snow climbing. We generally put in two or three camps above base camp before going for the top. The summit ridge provides some interesting climbing as you wind through rocks, ice and snow on your way to the top of Antarctica . The views from the summit on a clear day are breathtaking, as you gaze across an ocean of ice which extends all the way to the horizon.

Climbers should prepare themselves physically to be able to carry moderately heavy loads over the course of fairly long days. Antarctica is a very cold place and proper equipment is essential. Our guides are very adept in taking care of climbers in arctic and Antarctic conditions; however, climbers must be familiar with how to look after themselves in a very cold environment.

The Mountain Trip Difference

We pride ourselves on providing the highest level of personal attention to our climbers from your first contact with our office until after you return home from your expedition. Our office staff is comprised of Vinson veterans, who can answer your questions based on personal experience. We provide the very highest standard of client care at every stage of your trip, and base all of our decision making on, "What is best for you?"

Our guides are very experienced with the rigors of Antarctic climbing and we provide them with the very best in food and supplies to ensure that you have the greatest possible experience at every stage of your journey. Mountain Trip sets the standard for quality on Mount Vinson .

Vinson expeditions take about 14 days; however, flight delays in Antarctica are quite common due to the ever changing weather. Climbers must keep some flexibility in their return schedules to allow for delays.

We are currently accepting bookings for the 2009/10 season. Based on booking trends over the past few years, and the limited availability of seats on the IL-76, we strongly encourage prospective climbers to book well in advance of their desired departure. Booking in April for a December expedition is not a bad idea.

Training Climbs

Aconcagua – This is a great entry into high altitude mountaineering and a good stepping stone before attempting Vinson because the length of the trip is similar, but it is overall somewhat easier of an ascent, and therefore a good litmus test before spending three weeks on an Antarctic peak.

Denali West Buttress – A climb of the West Buttress of Denali might not be a bad idea for someone hoping to ascend Mount Vinson. While the West Buttress is physically more demanding than is an ascent of Vinson, we are including this to stress how serious an expedition to Antarctica can be. Climbing Denali is a whole lot less expensive than climbing in Antarctica and it might make sense to know that you enjoy cold, harsh environments before heading this far south.

Follow Up Climbs

Denali West Buttress – If you decided to attempt Mount Vinson before climbing on Denali, and had a good experience, you should really consider heading to Alaska. The West Buttress is physically more demanding than is an ascent of Vinson, but in many ways, Vinson is a great training peak for Denali, as it is physically less demanding, and the duration of the expedition is generally shorter.

Everest – This is a huge jump up from an ascent of Vinson, and a very serious decision, but if you are considering climbing the Seven Summits then Everest is on your list.

Itinerary

DAY 1: TEAM MEETING AND GEAR CHECK. We’ll let you know where this
will take place based on where we end up getting rooms reserved for
everyone. There are no climbing shops in Punta Arenas, so please make sure that you brought everything on the equipment list. We’ll make all of our final preparations for the flight to Patriot Hills. There should also be time to explore the interesting port city of Punta Arenas.

DAY 2: GROUP MEETING for all climbers flying to Antarctica with ALE. Later in the day we will weigh all of our equipment and food and ALE will stow it all on the Ilyushin.

DAY 3: Weather permitting, we make the 4.5 hour flight to Patriot Hills. From there we will fly to base camp at 7,000 feet in a Twin Otter. At base camp we will have an on-glacier safety talk and prepare our sleds with loads for our ascent.

DAY 4: We have a couple of options as to where we can camp on the Branscomb Glacier. This decision will be based on how the team is feeling on our first day on the trail. One camp is at the major bend in the glacier (about 9,600’) and the other is just around the corner from the steep headwall at about 10,000 feet.

DAY 5: If we were able to put in our camp at 10,000 feet, we’ll carry loads up to high camp at 12,500 feet and return to Camp 1 for the night. Otherwise we’ll move to the camp around the corner from the headwall.

DAY 6: The route up to high camp climbs a steep headwall to gain the moderate slopes that lead to the broad col between Vinson and Mount Shinn. The views back down the Branscomb Glacier can be astounding, so don’t forget to look back over your shoulder on your way up. This stretch presents some avalanche hazard from seracs, so we’ll need to hustle through some sections.

DAY 7: SUMMIT DAY. From high camp it is about a three mile traverse with 3,600 feet of elevation gain to the summit. The summit ridge offers fun climbing with sensational views of Ellsworth Range and the Ronne Ice Shelf. After summiting, we’ll spend the night back at high camp before descending the next day.

DAY 8: RETURN TO BASECAMP.

DAY 9-12: WEATHER DAYS. You’ve flown a long way and spent a lot of money to get here, these days are insurance so that you get the best possible shot at summiting. We’ll have plenty of delicious meals to keep us busy and the sledding and hiking out of Vinson base camp are great.

DAY 13: FLY FROM BASECAMP TO PATRIOT HILLS.

DAY 14: FLY TO PUNTA ARENAS.

****This is a rough outline of how the schedule might proceed. There are many options for moving and camping, and we might easily be delayed by weather at the beginning , middle or end of the trip. Please keep an open mind and stay flexible!

Guide Tips

CAMERA BATTERIES

A dead camera battery is a sorry reason to feel disappointment over your trip. Bring two or three spare batteries, and a few extra disposable toe warmers to ensure that you have plenty of juice on summit day. Make certain that you have charged, discharged and charged your new batteries before you depart from home.

Chilean electrical outlets use 220 volt current, so consider bringing a voltage converter. The outlets only accept use the "two post" style plugs, so you should pick up a converter plug for anything you might need to plug into an outlet. Converters are available in Punta Arenas, but wouldn't you rather not stress over something like that when you are about to fly to Antarctica?

On the Ice, only use your camera when your battery is warm. I keep mine in a thigh pocket, where it is not prone to condensation, but stays warm and accessible. On summit day, I paste an adhesive backed toe warmer over my battery cover to help keep it warm, and drop the other toe warmer from the package into my thigh pocket for additional warmth. Two sets should get you to the summit and back with dozens or hundreds of images to share with everyone at home.

Equipment List

* FOOTWEAR

1. MOUNTAINEERING DOUBLE BOOTS:Boots fall into two categories, traditional double boots and boot systems with integrated gaiters. The goal is to have warm, comfortable feet! Try on a variety of boots as they all fit differently and get the one that fits well.
   System Boots: SCARPA "PHANTOM 8000", LA SPORTIVA "OLYMPUS MONS EVO"
   Double Boots: SCARPA "INVERNO" with High Altitude Liners or Intuition Liners, LA SPORTIVA "NUPTSE" or "SPANTIK"
   ** All double boots need Overboots and Gaiters- System Boots do not necessarily need them
   
2. OVERBOOTS: Neoprene overboots such as 40 Below Purple Haze are best. OR and Wild Country insulated Overboots work well if they fit with your crampons. Supergaiters alone are not warm enough for Vinson.
3. GAITERS: Full height, such as Black Diamond GTX Frontpoint Gaiter or Outdoor Research "Crocodiles." Full coverage "Supergaiters" work great as well.
4. BOOTIES: Synthetic or down fill booties. These are great for camp and tent comfort and allow you extra opportunity to dry out your mountain boots. They also help keep feet warm at night. Cut out an extra insole from some foam for additional warmth.

CLOTHING
Your clothing layers for Vinson basically consist of five layers for your torso and four for your legs. Additional layers are optional and should be selected based on personal levels of hygiene or comfort.

Torso Layers

1. BASE LAYER TOP: A synthetic top such as Mid-Weight Capilene from Patagonia. The new Merino wool options are really nice as well.
2. "EXPEDITION WEIGHT" FLEECE TOP:This should be made from 100 weight or Powerstretch fleece. A zip t-neck is essential for ventilating. Guides’ Pick: Patagonia R1 Flash Top or R1 Hoody.
   
3. SHELL JACKET: This should be large enough to go over your base and expedition weight clothing layers. This does not need to be the burliest Gore-Tex pieces you can find! Many people are climbing Vinson using lightweight, windproof, water resistant shells.
4. PRIMALOFT or similar "PUFFY" JACKET:The “puffy” type jackets are arguably better than fleece as they are lighter and more windproof and can be thrown on over your shell jacket at rest stops. Guides’ Choice: Patagonia Micro-Puff Jacket (with hood).
5. EXPEDITION PARKA (WITH HOOD):Patagonia, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear and The North Face all make good parkas, but our Guides’ Pick is the Patagonia Down Parka. There are some synthetic options such as the Patagonia D.A.S. Parka and the Wild Things Belay Jacket, however; down is recommended as it is lighter and less bulky.
   

Leg Layers

1. REGULAR UNDERWEAR:One or two changes. Look for synthetics such as Patagonia Capilene.
   
2. BASE LAYER: 1 pair of synthetic top and bottoms such as Mid-Weight Capilene from Patagonia. The new Merino wool options are really nice as well.
3. "EXPEDITION WEIGHT" FLEECE PANTS: made from 100 weight or Powerstretch fleece. Guides’ Choice: Patagonia R1 or Wool 4 Pants.
   
4. STRETCH WOVEN PANTS: Though optional, this “Soft Shell” layer is great due to the broad comfort range they provide. Often pants made of Schoeller Dynamic or similar fabrics can be worn all the way to High Camp in lieu of less breathable Shell pants. Guides’ Pick: Arcteryx Gamma MX pants or Patagonia Winter Guide Pants.
   
5. SHELL PANTS: Light weight windproof pants with side zips. Just like your Shell Jacket, these do not need to be super tough. Your primary benefit from this layer is wind protection.
6. INSULATED PANTS: This layer must have side zippers and needs to be either “Puffy” synthetic or down pants like the Patagonia Micro Puff Pant or Feathered Friends Volant Pants. These need to fit over your Shell pants for easy and quick layer changes.

Hands, Feet and Head

1. SOCKS: 3+ sets of wool or synthetic medium/heavy weight socks. Make certain your socks fit with your boots!
   
2. LIGHT GLOVES: “Soft Shell” Gloves work better than fleece. Guides’ Pick: Outdoor Research Vert Gloves
   
3. INSULATED GLOVES: Warm, insulated gloves are the workhorse on Vinson. Gloves with a Goretex liner are best and our Guides’ Pick, Black Diamond Guide Gloves also have removable liners for ease of drying. Please do not skimp on gloves; purchase the best, warmest ones you can find.
   
4. SUMMIT MITTENS: Thick, warm, non-constricting mittens made of pile, Primaloft or down. Guides’ Pick: Outdoor Research Alti Mitts. They aren’t cheap, but are extremely warm. Just divide the cost by your 10 fingers and they are a bargain!
   
5. WARM HAT: One warm hat or two hats of different weights. Wool or pile is fine. Your hat must provide ear protection. If you bring two, the second could be a balaclava.
   
6. FACE MASK: Neoprene or Windstopper work well.
   
7. BUFF: Buff is the brand name of a lightweight, synthetic, long neck gaiter that can be worn as a hat, scarf, balaclava or headband. This is an exceptionally useful piece of clothing.
   
8. SUN HAT: Baseball type or wide brimmed sun hat for the intense sunshine of the southern latitudes. You can combine a baseball hat with a bandana for good sun protection
   
9. HAND WARMERS: Bring 8+ sets of disposable hand warmers as insurance.
   
10. GLACIER GLASSES: They must have side protection and filter 100% UVA and UVB rays.
    
11. SKI GOGGLES: Double lens, full UV protected goggles. The cheap ones tend to fog up.

PACKS

1. EXPEDITION PACK: (6000+ cu in. or 90+ Liters) You’ll need a large pack in order to carry your gear, plus group food & equipment. Dana Designs Terra Plane, Gregory Denali Pro and Osprey Aether 85 all fit the bill. BE CERTAIN THAT YOUR PACK FITS YOU! Get used to your pack; train with it!
2. DAY PACK: A small day pack is nice for the flight to Antarctica. (Optional)
3. LARGE ZIPPERED DUFFELS: Two large duffels for transporting gear on sleds and for use as gear storage back in Punta Arenas.

SLEEPING GEAR

1. EXPEDITION SLEEPING BAG: (Rated to at least 40 below.) Marmot Cwm, Mt Hardwear 5th Dimension and The North Face Darkstar are all great bags. Which to choose, down or synthetic? Down is lighter and less bulky, but cost a lot more. Synthetic bags are getting much better, but down is a better choice. Guides’ Pick: Feathered Friends Snowy Owl. You might only use it in Antarctica, but you’ll be warm.
2. COMPRESSION STUFF SACK: Outdoor Research makes some nice, new lightweight sacks. Essential for sleeping bags and one is recommended for your summit clothes, such as your parka, mitts and warmest pants.
3. 2 SLEEPING PADS: You need two pads, with one being a closed cell pad such as a Ridge Rest or a Karrimat and the other an inflatable pad. The new Exped down-filled air mattresses work great if you practice inflating them before your trip. Guides’ Pick: Exped 9 full length paired with a Ridge Rest Deluxe. (Contact us for tips on having success with the Exped pads).

TECHNICAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

1. ICE AXE: (with leash.) 70-80 cm length works well for Vinson Guides’ Pick: Black Diamond Raven Pro.
2. CRAMPONS:12 point crampons that FIT YOUR BOOTS! Step in or "New-matic" work equally well, just make sure step-in versions fit with your overboots.
3. HARNESS: Adjustable leg loops are required. The Black Diamond Blizzard or Alpine Bod harnesses are both lightweight and functional.
4. PRUSSIKS: Bring two 6 mm prussiks or pair one with a Petzl Tibloc or a Wild Country Ropeman.
5. CARABINERS:Bring two large locking carabiners and five regular carabiners. Bent-gate biners are very sexy, but are not appropriate for this expedition, so leave them at home with your neon lycra sport-climbing tights. Mark them with colored tape for identification. Guides’ Pick: Black Diamond Neutrinos are very lightweight.
6. PERLON CORD: 60 feet of 5 mm for sled and pack tie offs.
7. SKI POLES: Adjustable, 3-section ski poles work best for traveling. Make certain they have broad, “powder” baskets. Black Diamond Flick Lock poles are recommended as they are less prone to spontaneously collapsing. Three section poles travel more easily than two section versions.

ESSENTIAL PERSONAL ITEMS

1. STUFF BAGS (for your own items)
2. (2)ONE QT. WIDE MOUTH WATER BOTTLES
3. INSULATED COVER (for each water bottle).
4. LARGE PLASTIC CUP OR BOWL for eating (2-4 cup measuring bowl or Rubbermaid storage bowl work fine)
5. INSULATED CUP 12 or 16 ounce plastic cup for hot drinks
6. LARGE PLASTIC (LEXAN) SPOON
7. 2 SMALL LIP BALMS (WITH 30+SPF): Two small tubes are easier to keep from freezing than one big tube.
8. SUN SCREEN 3-4 OUNCES- two to four small tubes work better than one large tube
9. TOILET PAPER: 1 or 2 rolls, depending on your technique
10. TOILET KIT (Tooth brush & paste, floss, Handi-wipes,... keep it small)
11. P-BOTTLE Wide-mouth, collapsible Nalgene Cantenes work great- they make a 96 ounce version! Ladies- look for an appropriate adapter available at your local outdoors store. These items are both tough to find in Anchorage so plan ahead!
12. EARPLUGS for the flight and for windy camps
13. PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT (Blister kit, aspirin, antacids, lozenges, Ibuprofen). PLEASE CONTACT YOUR PERSONAL PHYSICIAN FOR A LIST OF APPROPRIATE PRESCRIPTION MEDICATIONS. Mountain Trip will have a very comprehensive medical kit.

OPTIONAL ITEMS

1. CAMERA, with lots of film or digital and no film
2. BOOK(s)for storm day reading and for keeping sane in the event we get stuck at Patriot Hills waiting for a flight
3. JOURNAL & PENCIL
4. ALTIMETER WATCH
5. FOOT POWDER
6. BANDANA
7. NECK GAITOR
8. SPARE SUN GLASSES
9. PERSONAL MUSIC PLAYER (CD, MINI DISC, MP3 PLAYER, ETC with extra batteries)

Make sure your gear works for you! Try everything out before you leave home. Vinson base camp is not the place to discover that your boots are too small or that your pack is not the right size.

**Fly with your boots and glacier glasses in your carry-on. Just in case.

ALL EQUIPMENT ON THIS LIST IS AVAILABLE AT AMH IN ANCHORAGE.

And you get a 10% discount if you mention that you are joining a Mountain Trip expedition. Check out their Web site www.alaskamountaineering.com or call 907-272-1811

FEATHERED FRIENDS IN SEATTLE WILL ALSO GIVE YOU A 10% DISCOUNT IF YOU TELL THEM THAT YOU ARE JOINING US ON AN EXPEDITION
www.featheredfriends.com or 1-206-262-6292