Mount Elbrus 18,841 ft.

Overview

A climb of Elbrus or Mengi Tau (Mountain of a Thousand Mountains) is a great way for climbers of all levels to experience high altitude mountaineering in a culturally rich setting. At 18,841', Elbrus is a heavily glaciated, twin-coned volcano that dominates the Caucuses Range. Due to its proximity to the Black Sea, it often seems to act as a magnet for brutal weather that streams up from the southwest. Moderate cramponing, a good level of fitness and a penchant for adventure will see you to the top, and the views of the Caucuses are stunning on a clear day. On summit day, our route ascends about 1000m of moderate snow slopes to the col between the two summit cones. Above this point, we will ascend another 300m of steeper snow to the western summit.

If you have never been to Russia, you are in for a real treat. Russia is a culturally diverse country and we will have time in our schedule to visit some of the sights in Moscow like the Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral. We also have the option of beginning our expedition in St. Petersburg, where the stunning architecture of old blends with a vibrant and eclectic modern urban society. The Hermitage, in St. Petersburg, is one of the greatest art museums in the world, and worthy of a weeklong visit itself!

After spending one full day exploring Moscow or St. Petersburg, we will fly to Mineralnye Vody (Mineral Water) and drive the four hours to our hotel in the Baksan Valley, at the foot of Elbrus. We will spend two days doing acclimatization hikes and, if conditions and time constraints allow, will have the option of climbing a nearby peak. A tram and ski lifts will then carry us near the primitive, yet serviceable, Barrels Huts on the flank of Elbrus from where we will begin our ascent of the mountain. After the climb, we will return to Mineralnye Vody, fly back to Moscow and make our return connections back home.

Conditioning:
Elbrus is a physically challenging ascent involving almost 5000 feet of elevation gain. Fitness is paramount for a successful ascent. You need to be prepared for a 12 hour summit day, so be sure to include some long, endurance training into your fitness regimen.

Skills:
The initial 3500 feet involve moderate snow climbing of 20-30 degrees. The climb to the summit steepens to 35 degrees in spots and can be icy if the wind has scoured the surface. It is relatively straightforward climbing and basic ice axe and crampon technique will see climbers to the summit.

Training Climbs

Elbrus is a great “entryway” into climbing big mountains. It is a blend of cultural experience, relatively high altitude, non-technical mountaineering, and adventure in a fairly short period of time. Aspiring climbers should be in good physical fitness, as summit day is challenging. No prior glacier experience is necessary, as we have plenty of time to cover the basics while acclimatizing.

Follow Up Climbs

Aconcagua – This is a great entry into higher altitude mountaineering and a good stepping stone before attempting peaks like Denali or Vinson because, while the length of the trip is similar, it is somewhat easier of an ascent overall, and therefore a good litmus test before spending two to three weeks on a colder mountain.

Denali West Buttress – The West Buttress is physically more demanding than and a significant step up from an ascent of Elbrus. In many ways they are very different, because of the amount of time you spend camping in the snow and because the altitude of Denali feels much higher than that of Elbrus due to Denali's proximity to the Arctic Circle. That being said, an Elbrus climb is a great step before heading up to Alaska.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Russia (Moscow or St. Petersburg), meet your guides and go out for a Welcome Dinner.

Day 2: Sightseeing in Moscow or St. Petersburg.

Day 3: Fly to Mineralnye Vody and drive to Terskol, in the Baksan Valley.

Day 4: Acclimatization hike in a nearby valley with views of Elbrus. This is a moderate day of exercise with modest elevation gains. We’ll spend the night in our hotel in Terskol.

Day 5: Acclimatization hike and review of crampon and ice axe techniques. We’ll spend this night in Terskol as well.

Day 6: Ascend tram and ski lifts to the Barrels Huts at 12,000 feet and hike onto the glacier which we will ascend on summit day.

Day 7: Hike up to Pastukhov Rocks at about 15,400 feet for additional acclimatization and descend to the Barrels Huts.

Day 8: Ascend to the upper hut near the old Priutt Hut below Pastukhov Rocks and prepare for our summit attempt. We will spend the night at this relatively new hut at about 14,000 feet.

Day 9: Summit day!

Day 10: Contingency summit day.

Day 10: Hiking, sightseeing and celebration in Terskol (or additional contingency summit day).

Day 12: Return flight from Mineralnye Vody to Moscow..

Day 13: Sightseeing in Moscow.

Day 14: Transfers to airport for flights back home.

***This is an itinerary. It is our plan, on paper, for the

Guide Tips

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Equipment List

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