Meet our Guides
Guides you can trust when it gets serious

Mountain Trip guides have climbed and guided all over the mountains of the world. Our lead Denali guides have all climbed the mountain at least 5 times, and most of them have 10 or more ascents under their boots. All of our guides hold current medical certifications and are trained in the latest mountain safety protocols. Their goal is to ensure you have an enjoyable, safe and successful climb. Climbing any big mountain is serious and you should have high standards for whomever you choose as your guide.

MOUNTAIN TRIP GUIDES

Gary Bocarde:
What can we say about the founder and spiritual head of Mountain Trip? His resume of ascents in Alaska is legendary: the first ascent of the SW. Face of Mooses Tooth, the first winter ascent of Mt. Hunter and the second ascent of the NW Buttress of Denali, to merely name a few… He cut his climbing teeth in Yosemite Valley where he and Charlie Porter did the first ascent of The Shield on El Cap. Hidden Peak, the Kangshung Face on Mount Everest, Pik Lenin have all felt the poke of Gary’s ice axe. A certified AMGA Alpine Guide, he currently lives in Anchorage, but spends a fair amount of time at his family cabin in Yosemite or in the high desert country of Utah. Above all for the members of the Mountain Trip family, Gary is our mentor, advisor and favorite uncle rolled into one.

Todd Rutledge:
I feel like I've come a long way from my boyhood home in central New Jersey. I began guiding in Alaska in 1992 and have led 16 Denali expeditions over the years. I've also been fortunate enough to guide and climb all over South America, on Mount Vinson in Antarctica, in the Himalayas, Carstensz Pyramid and in Europe. In 2004, Gary Bocarde decided to sell Mountain Trip to me and Bill Allen, and I am often the voice on the phone when you call the office. In 2006, I built a nice house at just shy of 10,000 feet in Ophir, CO, and am living the dream with my wife Lisa, our boys Logan and Dalton, and our Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Lola. I have Bachelors Degrees in History and Anthropology, and a Minor in Spanish. If you're looking for a book recommendation for a long expedition, I'd suggest either A Short History of Nearly Everything, by Bill Bryson or Mad, Bad and Dangerous To Know, by Sir Ranulf Fiennes. Sir Ranulf is a bit hard for some folks to take, but his sense of adventure in almost without parallel in modern times.

Bill Allen:
I have been lucky enough to craft a life out of pursuing the things that I love to do for over 16 years now. I grew up playing in the Cascade Mountains of Oregon, and eventually made it up to Alaska where I found my first guiding job and eventually realized that I might be able to make a living out of it. I've now been to places that I never dreamed I would ever get a chance to go, and my job is to help share those experiences. I've guided over 20 expeditions on Denali, been on expeditions to Mt. Foraker, Mt. Huntington, and many other peaks in Alaska. I've also been to Antarctica a couple of times guiding climbers on Vinson, climbed Aconcagua enough times that my knees hurt just thinking about it, have climbed Carstensz Pyramid in West Papua 5 times (a different approach on each expedition), climbed Kilimanjaro once, and have climbed in Nepal several times. In the spring of 2010, I was able to share an amazing Everest summit day with a group of our climbers. Todd also lets me out of the Mountain Trip office just enough that I am able to work as a ski guide in the winter ( www.helitrax.com ). I spend my winters in Ophir, CO with my very understanding wife, Sonja and we still spend most of the summer in Alaska.

Scott Woolums:
A long-time Mountain Trip and AMGA Certified Alpine Guide; Scott is available for private expeditions in Alaska and virtually anywhere in the world. He has been guiding Denali for 25 years and has been on top 30+ times. He has summitted Everest five times via two routes and has climbed, guided and put up first ascents around the globe. Scott is the Director of Mountain Trip's Himalayan program and leads our Everest expeditions.

Chris Kerrick:
Mountain Trip's Big Wall ace is equally at home in the Alaska Range, South America or running it out on sketchy gear on El Cap. He has numerous Denali ascents under his belt including two traverses of the mountain and is a strong technical rock and ice climber. Chris has led many Aconcagua climbs as well as technical routes in Alaska. His skill and tenacity on steep rock is mirrored by his willingness and ability to undertake the craziest construction projects in his community of Salmon Beach, WA. He just finished building himself a home that sits over the water on wood piers in that funky community, where he lives with his fiance Jean and their beautiful baby girl, Keeler.

Ryan Campbell:
A full-time Alaskan; Ryan leads Denali, Aconcagua, Africa, Antarctica and Nepal expeditions. "Ryan's contagious strength of will got us to the top" is a common comment we get from folks on his trips. Ever confident, competent and always upbeat, he spends his winters teaching telemark skiing and fighting his way up mixed climbs in South Central Alaska. Ryan led a group to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid in August of 2005 and to the top of Mount Everest in the spring of '07.

Zach Shlosar:
Zach has guided seventeen Denali expeditions and we’re psyched to have him still leading trips for us. His confidence-inspiring demeanor has the uncanny ability to enable tired climbers dig deep to find that inner reserve needed to make the summit. He’s climbed extensively in the Alaska Range and the Chugach. Zach is one of Mountain Trip's "Guide Magnet Award" recipients, which helped enable him to push a new route up the Bear's Tooth in April, 2007. In 2008, Zach led our Sourdough Expedition, which approached Denali via dogsled from the north and climbed the Muldrow Glacier route to be the first team to summit the mountain that year.

Dave Staeheli:
These things always make me self-conscious... Okay, I've been guiding Denali since 1979. I may or may not hold the record for the most ascents, but I can't tell because I stopped counting a long time ago. I'm an AMGA Certified Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Guide. I guess I'm arguably the first Alpine Guide to be certified in the US (ask Kathy Cosley!). I'm proud that I have never left a client or partner in crevasse longer than twenty minutes. Hmmm, I can twirl a ski pole in my fingertips and can tie over 100 knots. I have actually invented a climbing knot, the "Staeheli Hitch." My favorite food: Hot sauce.

Sonja Nelson:
Sonja began guiding in Alaska in the summer of 2000 to find some balance with her wintertime profession of ski patrolling at Telluride. She has guided in Nepal as well as on Denali. In 2009, Sonja, with three friends climbed and skiiedfrom the summit of Denali. When not guiding for Mountain Trip or helping run our Alaska office during the summer, Sonja works as a ski patroller at Telluride Mountain while she and her husband Bill Allen live in the old Scrapple Cabin in Ophir, CO.

Bill Billmeier:
Bill lives in Anchorage, Alaska but is looking forward to moving to the Bush. He graduated from Alaska Pacific University with an Outdoor Studies degree in 2003 and has worked in the mountains since then. He has been with Mountain Trip since 2001 and has worked on ten Denali expeditions and has guided other ascents in the Alaska Range. Bill is a passionate climber, guide and instructor and enjoys sharing his love for all things mountainous. In 2007, he married his sweetheart Betsy and in 2008 they began to realize their dream of putting a yurt in the Alaskan Bush. They are updating a blog chronicling their efforts of building at the remote Bench Lake when they come back to town to resupply. You can follow their blog here.

Rob Durnell:
"Durny" is another resident Alaskan who Heli-ski guides in the Chugach Mountains during the winter. During the summer he guides wild Alaskan rivers and slays fish on fishing boats when he's not guiding Denali. This wild man guided Denali three times each season in 2005 and 2007! Off seasons, he can be found surfing down in Baja. Rob, along with MT guide Heidi Kloos, was the recipient of the Denali National Park's Denali Pro Award in 2008, for his selfless actions in helping the NPS with a difficult rescue in 2007.

Drew Ludwig:
My name is Drew Ludwig and I have a climbing problem. It all started in High School and quickly developed into a college distraction. After receiving a BFA in photography, the mountains landed me in a Volkswagen van working as a guide in Telluride, Colorado. That was ten years ago and I have since moved out of the van and turned that distraction into a career. The peaks I guide tend to be very large and cold and leave me with a humble acknowledgement that I am very small. I have guided all over the world on many of the seven summits, but the San Juan Mountains will always be home. I have worked on Denali for Mountain Trip for nine years. I take my climbing problem seriously and have completed a number of courses on my way to a full IFMGA certification. The mountains have given me a sense of place and purpose and I love what I do.

Peter Inglis:
Known in many circles as "Pi"; Peter has been climbing and guiding around the world for decades. He is the assistant avalanche forcaster for the Telluride Ski Resort during the winter and has participated on nine Denali expeditions. Strong and solid as they come, he's an asset to any team. In 2007, after guiding two trips to the summit, Pi went back on his own and climbed and skied from both the north and south summits of Denali!

Constantine Severis:
Con has been guiding on Denali for MountainTrip since 2004 and has guided seven Denali expeditions and an Aconcagua climb for us. He spends the rest of his summer guiding rock in Yosemite Valley and Toulume Meadows. He is a ski guide for Telluride Helitrax in the winter. Con summitted Everest in 2007 and is eager to guide the remaining four of the seven summits. Con is an AMGA certified Rock and Alpine guide and i sclose to finishing his Ski Guides Exam to satisfy the US equivalent of IFMGA certification.

Some of the crew at Camp 3 on Denali. From left to right: Peter Inglis, Kim Grant, Drew Ludwig, Heidi Kloos, Chris Kerrick and Dave Ahrens at bottom

David Marchi:
I grew up in Mt. Shasta, CA where I was exposed to backcountry skiing and the big mountain environment at an early age. After attending Fort Lewis College in Durango, CO, I longed for an outside job and began working as a mountaineering guide for Shasta Mountain Guides in 1999. Since then I have guided in Nepal, Indonesia, India and South America. In Alaska, I have guided 6 trips on Denali and work as a helicopter ski guide for Chugach Powder Guides. In 2005, I was part of an international team implementing avalanche and safety protocols for a new ski development in Kashmir, India.
With my AMGA Ski Mountaineering training, Wilderness First Responder and AIARE Avalanche training I have collected a lot of experience and can provide climbers with challenging and fun adventures.
Currently, my wife, Petit, and I are traveling in a converted Ambulance/RV that runs off of waste veggie oil promoting our joint guiding business Globallines. As we travel we present fresh slideshows of inspiring images that remind people of their choices in life. Believing that our world is at the tipping point, we encourage our guest to awaken to the possibilities of their life and how they treat the environment.

Dave Ahrens:
After several phone calls in the autumn of 2004, Todd at Mountain Trip agreed to meet me for an interview over coffee. The rest, as they say... I joined the Mountain Trip family in 2005 and have guided on Denali each year since them. I've climbed on the mountain 15 times, and have been fortunate to summit from both the North and South sides. Bill and Todd have helped me pursue my education through courses taught by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA). In September of 2009, I passed my exam to become an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide. I work year round as a mountain and ski guide, spending my summers in Alaska and in the Cascades, and my winters working at Silverton Mountain in southwest Colorado. In 2008, I led a small team up the remote and committing Muldrow Glacier route on the north side of Denali and also climbed the West Buttress. Todd is convinced that makes me the first climber to summit from the north and the south in the same season. I'm not certain, but it was sure a great summer!

Kevin Koprek:
Kevin came to us on loan from San Juan Mountain Guides in 2005 and we don't want to give him back (Sorry Clint!). A true professional with boundless optimism and a serious work ethic, Kevin climbs hard ice all winter around Ouray, Colorado and has guided five Denali climbs as well as a Mount Foraker expedition for us. He is another Magnet Award recipient, which helped him take his AMGA Alpine Guide course in the summer of 2007. Kevin also works for Rigging for Rescue, training numerous rescue organizations high angle rescue techniques.

Jacob Schmitz:
I'm originally from Southern California and I spent my childhood climbing in the Southwest. I moved to Yosemite NP where I worked in the backcountry setting up the High Sierra Camps. After spending seven years in the Sierras, climbing alpine routes, over thirty big walls and enjoying Yosemite in general, I realized I wanted to work in the greater mountain ranges of the world. To that end, I started guiding eight years ago and have not looked back. Since 2007, I have guided ten Denali climbs for Mountain Trip. In South America I have worked in Ecuador, Bolivia and led over 25 trips up Aconcagua. I have spent a lot of time in East Africa working on Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya. East Africa is one of my favorite places to visit and I believe everyone should experience it. I have been lucky to have worked in three different mountain ranges in Asia and look forward to returning. My favorite thing about mountain expeditions is the team work and logistics it takes to make it to the summit. Having a HAPPY summit team is one of the most rewarding parts of my job. Todd asked for a book recommendation, as I read a lot on my trips. I'll recommend Alaska by James A Michener to Denali climbers and any Tom Robbins book for a quick read as they keep me entertained.
Hope to see you in the mountains, it's a small world.

Michael Burmeister:
I have been on Denali a total of ten times, the first being a snowboard trip and the other nine working as a guide. I have climbed on the southside of Mount Hunter (Corliss-Taylor to 12,500) and guided a trip on the West Ridge with Zach Schlosar. I've climbed in Little Switzerland, on the Broken Tooth in the Ruth Gorge, and way down south in Cochamo, Chile. Splitboarding (snowboard touring) in the Chugach is definitely my passion and where the majority of my winter is spent. This is the last semester of school for me, so in December I should have a literature degree with a minor in philosophy. My recommendation for a good read is The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy which I thought was excellent.

Zach Johnson:
Originally from Colorado, Zach grew up skiing, climbing, rafting and fishing his way up to Alaska and around the world. He has worked for Mountain Trip for six years and during the rest of the summer he guides remote Alaskan rivers. In the winter you will find him exploring Alaska 's backcountry skiing and challenging ice routes or working in Northern Patagonia rafting the infamous Futaleufu river. His next great adventure is staking his first bit of Alaskan soil in the Tordrillo Mountains and building a remote haven. Serving up some of the most random questions, Zach will keep you always on your toes and is known for serving up gluttonous amounts of deserts.

Jared Vilhauer
I'm a Colorado boy who first found his way up to guide in the Alaska Range in 1999. I've been guiding for Mountain Trip since 2006 and lead some of their Alaska trips and Colorado ice climbs. I've been on Denali thirteen times and really enjoy looking for and climbing new routes in the Alaska Range and elsewhere. Seeking out new, interesting lines has also taken me to climb in China, Pakistan and Peru. When I'm back in my home area of Telluride, CO, I enjoy backcountry snowboarding, trail running and work as a licensed electrician, so if you need a new fixture installed, give me a ring! Todd wanted me to pass out a book suggestion, so if you have never read the irreverent Monkey Wrench Gang by Edward Abbey, I think you'll enjoy it.

Joe Butler:
I have been working for Mountain Trip since 2005 and guiding professionally since 2002. I have guided five successful trips up Denali, as well as Kahiltna Dome, Middle Troll, and I completed two overland exits from the Alaska Range. Climbing has taken me to Nepal, Thailand, and Argentina. I spent the winter of '07-'08 working in Chilean Patagonia guiding glacier traverses and teaching mountaineering skills around the Northern Patagonian Ice Cap. I also work as a rigger and safety for film productions in Alaska. I am a year-round Alaskan who spends his time climbing exciting alpine lines in the Chugach Mountains and fighting cold temps on ice routes. For a vicarious adventure, I recommend reading The Worst Journey in the World. I live in downtown Anchorage with my wife Amara and our soon to be veggie oil car, the 1981 VW Rabbit diesel.

Caitlin Hague:
I have a Bachelors of Science in Environmental Science from Alaska Pacific University and hope to pursue a PHD. I have lived in Alaska for six years and originally moved here to cross country ski race. I am an avid backcountry skier and packrafter, which is a really exciting, lightweight raft which enables you to hike in to a climbing objective and raft out. I have been on Denali five times and the best book I've read this year is Life in the Treetops by Margret Lowman.

Nick Shepherd:
Being born and raised in the state of Alaska, I have no intention to live anywhere else. Anyone who spends time outside here quickly understands why. The Alaska Range is an unbelievable array of mountains to climb in and two seasons of guiding on Denali has only left me hungry for more. I'm finished up a double major in Philosophy and Anthropology last year, and now I'm back in the mountains for good. I've worked for Mountain Trip for the past five years and have had the pleasure of working with most of the other crew here. Todd asked for a book, so, consider reading Arnold's Bodybuilding for Men and watch Pumping Iron. Mark Twight understates it best, "Power is not a bad thing to have in excess." (Twight, Extreme Alpinism, pg 46)

Greg Nappi:
I was born and raised in a town west of Philadelphia called Wayne, PA and I started climbing at the age of 16. I took an Outward Bound and a NOLS Mountaineering course during High School, and I also intsructed at the local rock gym. I attended Colorado Mountain College where I found much fondness in the free heel (telemark skiing) and spent no time looking back. I currently spend my time chasing turns on the Turnagain Arm/ Pass of Alaska and resided in Hope, AK for the winter. My summer times are spent in the Alaska Range or pounding nails to help make the dreams happen. I've guided a half dozen Denali expeditions for Mountain Trip, and am currently treading water in what I call Fantasy Camp. This year's Camp includes rock climbing in Smith Rock, OR and in Mexico to be followed by a long awaited ski season in Alaska.

Sean McManamy:
I live in south central Alaska on the Turnagain Arm, in a little town called Hope. I came up to Alaska for the deep snowpack, and to finish my college education at Alaska Pacific University. Nowadays, skiing in the Chugach take up a lot of my time. I've been working for Mountain Trip since 2007 and have guided a half dozen Denali climbs. On Denali, my favorite luxory is melted cheese, as it's a bit tough to find ice cream (though not impossible!). The best book I've read this year was In Dubious Battle by John Stienbeck.

Julian (Jules) Hanna:
I joined the Mountain Trip family in 2009. I began guiding ice climbing and backpacking trips in the Wrangells in 2005. Guiding in the Alaska Range was a natural progression for this native Californian and I live in the mountain full time except for surf expeditions to Costa Rica, Mexico and the Hawaiian Islands. In the spring I guide for Alaska Heliskiing in Haines, AK. I am currently pursing Ski Guide certification with the AMGA and I have completed their ski guide course. JI enjoy riding lines all over North America but find Alaska offers another level of riding that is indescribable. After an exciting season in the Chilkat Mountains, an old mountain man looked told me, “you're going to live a rich life because you've got laughter in your soul.” I look forward to sharing that laughter with you on a Mountain Trip.

Clint Cook:
We were really happy to have Clint join us on Denali in 2005. He is a fully certified AMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide who runs San Juan Mountain Guides in Ouray, CO. They offer a variety of quality climbs and instructional courses in Southwest Colorado and Southeast Utah in addition to international trips. Check them out at: www.ourayclimbing.com Clint guides loads of technical routes for us in Alaska, including an attempt on the Cassin Ridge of Denali in 2010.

Nathan Disser:
Nate joined the Mountain Trip family in 2005 for a trip up the West Rib and guided for us in the Ruth Gorge in 2007. He is a super competent rock and ice climber who has organized and led expeditions around the world. Nate, an AMGA certified Rock Guide, owns and runs Southwest Adventure Guides in Durango, CO. We think they run great trips in the Southwest as well as in South America, so check out their website at: www.mtnguide.net

Zoe Hart:
Zoe is a full time guide and outstanding all around climber. In 2005 she joined Heidi Kloos as one of the relatively few female AMGA Certified Alpine guides. In 2008, she became one of the even fewer IFMGA certifed female guides from the US. Her engaging demeanor brings out the best in all who climb with her. She is certain to put the "Rock Star back into rock climbing!" Zoe is also an aspiring author and we invite you to check out her blog here.

Kim Grant:
Kim has guided three seasons on Denali for Mountain Trip. When not guiding in the Alaska Range, Kim ski guides at Silverton Mountain in Colorado and in the Chugach Mountains out of Valdez, AK. Kim is a boundless supplier of smiles and good energy. She's tough, skilled and super fun!

Lisa Rutledge:
Currently the Office Manager of Mountain Trip, Lisa began guiding in Alaska in 1994, following a couple of seasons working in Antarctica. She is another school teacher by trade and has taught Alaskan youths out on the Aleutian islands in the town of Dutch Harbor. She grew homesick, however, and now teaches in Telluride, Colorado where she skis the backcountry with Todd and their Chessy, Lola. If she answers your phone call, listen for the voice of their cute little boys Logan and Dalton in the background.

Clockwise from top left: Josh Kling, Roanna Wick, Sean McNamany, Caitlin Hague all caught as they passed by Camp 1 on Denali in 2008